Woman's Waitao (Semiformal Domestic Surcoat)

Qing dynasty (1644–1911), 1820/40

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered in knot, satin, and stem stitches; sleeve bands: silk, plain weave self-patterned by ground weft floats and areas of 1:1 gauze crossings; embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in knot, satin, and split stitches; laid work and couching; edged with silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave with supplementary patterning wefts bound by secondary binding warps and self-patterned by ground weft floats; ribbon: silk and silver-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, plain weave with supplementary patterning warps; trim, closures, and ties: silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave; lined with silk, 3:1 twill damask weave; sleeve inner lining: cotton, plain weave