Turkmen, probably Teke
Turkmenistan
Chyrpy (Woman’s Mantle)
INV-2742
Turkmen, probably Teke
TurkmenistanLate 19th‒early 20th century
Chyrpy (Woman’s Mantle)
Turkmen, probably Teke Turkmenistan
textilecostume
Date
Late 19th‒early 20th century
Medium
Cotton, plain weave; pieced; embroidered with cotton and silk in french knots, satin, outline, ladder and cross stitches; lined with cotton, plain and satin weaves, some printed, some resist-dyed; embellished with cotton, plain weave, and self-patterning warp trim, braided cord trim, and knotted and plied fringe
Dimensions
128.6 × 82.6 cm (50 5/8 × 32 1/2 in.)
Museum
Art Institute of Chicago
Location
Chicago, IL
Credit
Louise A. Lutz Endowment Fund
A newlywed woman in Teke Turkmen territory in Turkmenistan wore this densely embroidered cloak to cover her hair, shoulders, and back, with the false sleeves hanging down the back. She likely wore it again for special occasions later in life. The embroidered designs feature a stylized tulip, the first flower to bloom on the Central Asian steppes in spring, as a symbol of fertility. Women made and embroidered garments like these at home, although luxury versions of the mantle were also professionally made and sold in the marketplace. Simpler, less decorative versions were also created for everyday use.
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