Ait Ouaouzguite Confederation
Siroua Mountains, Morocco
Akhnif (Man's Cape)
INV-1809
Ait Ouaouzguite Confederation
Siroua Mountains, MoroccoMid–19th century
Akhnif (Man's Cape)
Ait Ouaouzguite Confederation Siroua Mountains, Morocco →Arts of AfricaAfrican Textilesarts of Africa
Date
Mid–19th century
Medium
Wool and cotton: wedge and slit tapestry weave; embroidered with wool and cotton in heavy chain, herring bone, interlacing, and stem stitches; twined and wrapped main warp cut fringe; added wrapped cut fringe and leather binding stitched with hemp
Dimensions
147.3 × 270.3 cm (58 × 106 1/2 in.)
Museum
Art Institute of Chicago
Location
Chicago, IL
Credit
Pauline S. Armstrong Endowment
This akhnif, or cape, was handwoven by Amazigh women of the Aït Ouaouzguite region in southern Morocco, on a wide vertical loom and woven entirely to shape, beginning upside-down from the hood. Creating the large motif on the back side required precise control of vertical (warp) tension and complex horizontal (weft) turns in the weave to build a curve, techniques reserved for the most skilled weavers. Male artisans later added the leather binding and other finishes. The prominent motif—known locally as irghis n-ukhnif (“the red of the akhnif” or “eye”)—served both as the garment’s visual focus and as a protective sign centered over the wearer’s back. Akhnif cloaks were worn by both Muslim and Jewish men.
—Hamza Alioua (Moroccan), independent scholar
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